Equipment guide

Chainsaws for tree work: types, jobs, checks and what to ask a dealer

The chainsaw is the tool every tree crew owns more than one of. Different saws suit different jobs, and the wrong saw in the wrong hands is a serious injury risk. This guide explains the types in simple words.

By Umair Nawaz, Lirevon. Last reviewed: October 2026. We do not sell equipment and we do not name brands.

What it is

A chainsaw is a motor that drives a loop of toothed chain around a guide bar. In tree work it fells, limbs, bucks and cuts a tree down in pieces. The power can be a gas engine, a battery or a plug-in motor.

No saw does everything. A saw that is easy to carry up a tree has less power than a saw that cuts large logs on the ground. Most companies solve this by owning a small set, one saw for each kind of job.

This page is part of our equipment library. For the money side, see the equipment guide.

Types

Top-handle saw (climbing saw)

Small and light, with the handle on top. Made for use in a tree, often one-handed in a short cut. Not meant for felling big trunks. It needs extra care, since a one-hand cut can kick back toward the face.

Rear-handle saw (ground saw)

The standard shape with the handle at the back. Used for felling, limbing and bucking on the ground. Bar length and power vary a lot, from light-duty to large-diameter work.

Battery saw

Quiet, no fuel mix and easy to start. Good for climbing, for homes close together and for early starts. Run time and power depend on the battery, so ask about both and plan spare batteries.

Pole saw

A small saw on a long pole for limbs you can reach from the ground. It lets you stay out of the tree on small work, but it still needs a safe working distance and a check for overhead power lines.

Large-bar felling saw

A big saw for large trunks. Heavy, powerful and tiring. It needs trained operators and good body positioning, and it is not a saw to hand to a new groundworker.

Jobs it fits

Climbing and pruning: a light top-handle or battery saw tied to the climber.
Takedowns piece by piece: a climbing saw aloft, a ground saw below to buck the pieces.
Storm cleanup: ground saws with spare chains, because dirt and grit dull a chain fast. Wood under tension needs trained hands.
Firewood and log cutting: a mid-size rear-handle saw.
Small limbs from the ground: a pole saw or a small battery saw.

Inspection and safety basics

These are general points, not a full safety program. Your equipment maker, ANSI Z133 and OSHA set the real rules, and a trained person on your crew should own them. Read the job site safety guide and use the tailgate safety sheet before work.

Read the maker manual. Every saw is a little different, and the manual is the first safety document.
Check the chain brake, the throttle lock, the chain catcher and the chain tension before the first cut of the day.
Keep the chain sharp. A dull chain makes you push harder, and that is when saws get away from people.
Never cut above shoulder height on the ground, and never with the tip of the bar where kickback can happen.
Wear the full PPE set: helmet with face and ear protection, leg protection, eye protection, gloves and boots. ANSI Z133 and OSHA name these.
Fuel and refuel away from heat, with the saw off and cooled. Store fuel only in labelled approved containers.
Train every new person. A saw in untrained hands is a serious risk to the whole crew. Keep a written record of training.
Call the utility, not your saw, when a tree is in or near a power line.

What to ask a dealer

A good dealer answers plainly and puts it in writing. Take this list with you, and get at least two written quotes.

Which saw size fits the job I do most, and which would you not use for it?
What is the real weight with bar, chain and fuel or battery?
For battery saws, how long does a charge last on the cuts I make, and how many batteries do I need?
What parts and sharpening supplies do you stock locally, and how fast is a repair?
Is there a trade-in or service plan, and what does the warranty cover?
Which safety features are standard on this saw, and can I see them shown?

Not sure whether to buy or rent? Try the equipment buy versus rent tool with your own numbers.

Quick comparison

Saw type	Best for	Main trade-off
Top-handle	Climbing and pruning	Not for large felling cuts
Rear-handle	Ground cutting, felling, bucking	Heavy to carry aloft
Battery	Quiet jobs, climbing, early starts	Run time and battery cost
Pole saw	Small limbs from the ground	Limited reach and control
Large-bar	Big trunks and logs	Weight and operator skill

General guide only. Specific machines differ, so use the maker manual.

Related equipment pages: PPE for tree work, Climbing gear, Rigging gear. Back to the equipment hub.

Common questions

How many chainsaws does a small tree company need?

Most start with at least one climbing saw and one ground saw, plus a spare for each. Spares matter because a saw down for repair should not stop a job. Your own work mix decides the count.

Is a battery chainsaw good enough for tree work?

For climbing and many ground jobs, yes. For large trunks and long days, gas saws still have an edge in run time and power. Many crews use both.

What is the safest chainsaw for a beginner?

There is no safe saw, only safe habits. A smaller saw with a chain brake and good training is a better start than a big saw. Do not skip the training.

Do I need leg protection to use a chainsaw?

ANSI Z133 and OSHA both address leg protection for chainsaw work. Check the current text for your type of work and state. This is a short explanation, not legal advice.

How often should I sharpen the chain?

Whenever it stops pulling itself into the wood or makes dust instead of chips. Many crews touch up often during the day. A sharp chain is a safer chain.

Should I buy new or used?

Used can save money if you can check the engine or motor, the brake, the clutch and the bar. Ask for a service history. A cheap saw with hidden problems costs more than a good new one.

Can I use a pole saw near power lines?

No. Keep clear of power lines and treat every line as live. Call the utility for any limb in or near a line. Only qualified line-clearance workers should work near them.

What should I do with old chains and fuel?

Follow your local rules for scrap metal and for fuel disposal. Do not pour fuel on the ground or in drains. Ask your dealer or local waste office.

This page is general information, not legal advice and not a safety manual. Follow the maker manual, ANSI Z133 (the US safety standard for arboricultural operations), the OSHA rules that apply to your work, and your own written safety plan. Prices vary a lot, so get written quotes.

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