Tree problems library
Tree pests and diseases: signs and what to do
Spots, holes, sticky leaves, dieback. Here are 60 common US tree problems in plain English, with the signs to look for and the next sensible step.
General information, not a diagnosis. A certified arborist or your county extension office can confirm. Worried the tree could fall? Read is my tree dangerous? first.
60 of 60 problems shown
Insects
Borers, beetles, caterpillars and sap feeders. Some are a nuisance; a few kill trees.
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Ambrosia beetles
InsectFirst sign: Thin, noodle-like tubes of sawdust and waste (frass) sticking out of the trunk
Trees: Flowering dogwood, Eastern redbud, Crape myrtle, Young or stressed landscape trees and more
When: Several generations can occur in a year, and in warm areas the beetles may be active almost year-round.
Signs and next steps -
Aphids
InsectFirst sign: Sticky, shiny drops on leaves, cars, patios and benches under the tree (honeydew)
Trees: Maples, Oaks, Crape myrtle, Linden and more
When: Mostly spring through early summer when new growth is soft, with some species active again in fall.
Signs and next steps -
Asian longhorned beetle
InsectFirst sign: Perfectly round exit holes about the size of a dime in the trunk or branches
Trees: Maples (including red, silver, sugar, Norway), Boxelder, Elms, Willows and more
When: Adult beetles are active in summer and early fall.
Signs and next steps -
Bagworms
InsectFirst sign: Small cone-shaped bags hanging from branches, made of silk and bits of leaf or needle
Trees: Eastern red cedar, Arborvitae, Leyland cypress, Pines and more
When: Eggs overwinter in the bag on the tree and hatch in late spring.
Signs and next steps -
Bronze Birch Borer
InsectFirst sign: Thinning leaves and dead branches at the top of the crown
Trees: Paper birch, Yellow birch, River birch (less often hit), Other birches
When: Adult beetles come out in late spring to summer.
Signs and next steps -
Eastern Tent Caterpillar
InsectFirst sign: Silky white tents in the forks of branches in spring
Trees: Wild cherry, Crabapple and apple, Plum and other fruit trees, Other members of the rose family
When: Eggs hatch in early spring about when buds open.
Signs and next steps -
Emerald ash borer
InsectFirst sign: Thinning or dying branches in the top of the crown, often starting in the upper part of the tree
Trees: Green ash, White ash, Other true ash trees
When: Adult beetles fly in late spring and summer.
Signs and next steps -
Fall Webworm
InsectFirst sign: Loose, silky webs that enclose leaves at the ends of branches
Trees: Walnut and pecan, Hickory, Black cherry, Sweetgum and more
When: The webs show up from mid to late summer and into fall, depending on the region.
Signs and next steps -
Hemlock woolly adelgid
InsectFirst sign: Small white, cottony tufts at the base of needles on the underside of twigs
Trees: Eastern hemlock, Carolina hemlock
When: The white tufts are visible on twigs for much of the year and are often easiest to spot in late winter and spring.
Signs and next steps -
Ips engraver beetles
InsectFirst sign: Pine tops or whole crowns turning yellow, then red-brown, often fast
Trees: Loblolly pine, Slash pine, Virginia pine, Eastern white pine and more
When: Adult beetles are active in the warm months and can produce several generations in a year in warm climates.
Signs and next steps -
Japanese Beetle
InsectFirst sign: Leaves that look like lace because only the tissue between veins is eaten
Trees: Linden, Birch, Crape myrtle, Cherry and plum and more
When: Adult beetles are active in summer, roughly early summer through late summer, and feed in the heat of the day.
Signs and next steps -
Lace bugs
InsectFirst sign: Pale, stippled spots on the top of the leaf
Trees: Sycamore and planetree, Hackberry, Oaks, Linden and more
When: Some species overwinter as eggs in leaf tissue.
Signs and next steps -
Leaf and stem galls
InsectFirst sign: Small bumps, spots, felt-like patches or pouches on the top or underside of leaves
Trees: Oaks (the most gall-prone group), Maples, Hackberry, Cottonwood and willows and more
When: Most galls start in spring, when insects or mites feed or lay eggs on fresh growth.
Signs and next steps -
Leafminers
InsectFirst sign: Blotchy or winding tunnels (mines) inside leaves or needles
Trees: Holly, Birch, Aspen, Elm and more
When: Many leafminers lay eggs shortly after leaves expand in spring.
Signs and next steps -
Mountain pine beetle
InsectFirst sign: Small, popcorn-shaped lumps of pitch (pitch tubes) on the trunk where beetles tried to enter
Trees: Ponderosa pine, Lodgepole pine, Limber pine, Whitebark pine
When: Adult beetles fly and attack in summer.
Signs and next steps -
Periodical cicada damage
InsectFirst sign: Browned, dead leaves at the tips of branches (called flagging)
Trees: Oaks, Maples, Dogwood, Young landscape and nursery trees and more
When: Periodical cicadas come out every 13 or 17 years, usually in late May or early June, when the soil warms to about 64 degrees F at 8 inches deep.
Signs and next steps -
Sawflies
InsectFirst sign: Groups of caterpillar-like larvae feeding together on needles or leaves
Trees: Pines, Spruces, Flowering dogwood, Oaks and more
When: Timing depends on the species.
Signs and next steps -
Scale insects
InsectFirst sign: Small bumps or crusty spots on bark or twigs that can be scraped off
Trees: Crape myrtle, Magnolia, Maples, Tulip poplar and more
When: Young scales, called crawlers, move in spring and early summer and are the easiest stage to treat.
Signs and next steps -
Southern pine beetle
InsectFirst sign: Small pitch tubes (popcorn-sized blobs of resin) on the trunk where beetles entered
Trees: Loblolly pine, Slash pine, Virginia pine, Eastern white pine and more
When: The beetle can be active across many months in warm areas and produces several generations in a year.
Signs and next steps -
Spider mites
InsectFirst sign: Stippled (speckled) yellow or brown needles on spruce
Trees: Spruces (spruce spider mite), Honeylocust (honeylocust spider mite), Hemlock, Arborvitae and more
When: Spruce spider mites are cool-season mites.
Signs and next steps -
Spongy moth
InsectFirst sign: Tan or buff, fuzzy egg masses on trunks, branches, rocks, fences and outdoor items in fall, winter and early spring
Trees: Oaks, Aspen, Birch, Linden and more
When: Eggs overwinter in masses.
Signs and next steps -
Spotted lanternfly
InsectFirst sign: Gray, tan egg masses with a mud-like coating on trees, stones, vehicles or outdoor items
Trees: Tree of heaven (a favorite), Maples, Black walnut, River birch and more
When: Eggs overwinter and hatch in spring.
Signs and next steps -
Two-lined chestnut borer
InsectFirst sign: Leaves that wilt and turn brown in late summer while still on the tree
Trees: Red oaks (such as northern red, scarlet, black, pin), White oaks (such as white, chestnut, bur), Other oaks that are stressed
When: Adults come out in spring or early summer.
Signs and next steps
Diseases
Fungi, bacteria and other living causes. Many look alike, so a lab test or an expert eye often decides.
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Anthracnose
DiseaseFirst sign: Irregular tan, brown or black blotches on leaves, often along the veins
Trees: American sycamore, White oak, Bur oak, Flowering dogwood and more
When: It is most common in cool, wet spring weather as leaves open.
Signs and next steps -
Armillaria root rot (shoestring root rot)
DiseaseFirst sign: Thinning crown, small leaves and slow growth over several years
Trees: White oak, Northern red oak, Pin oak, Sugar maple and more
When: The rot works year-round underground.
Signs and next steps -
Bacterial leaf scorch
DiseaseFirst sign: Leaf edges that die and turn light brown, often with a dark reddish-brown band and a yellow border next to the green part
Trees: Red oaks and pin oaks (most affected), White oak, Red maple, Elms and more
When: Leaf browning usually shows in mid to late summer and into early fall.
Signs and next steps -
Beech Leaf Disease
DiseaseFirst sign: Dark green bands between the veins of the leaves, best seen from below with sunlight behind the leaf
Trees: American beech, European beech, Other beech species
When: Banding is easiest to see in summer when leaves are fully open.
Signs and next steps -
Black knot
DiseaseFirst sign: Rough, swollen, tumor-like growths on twigs and branches
Trees: Black cherry, Plums and other cherry trees, Other Prunus (stone fruit) trees and shrubs
When: Infection happens in spring on young growth during wet weather.
Signs and next steps -
Cankers
DiseaseFirst sign: Sunken, flattened or swollen patches on a branch or trunk where the bark looks different
Trees: Maples, Oaks, Ash and elm, Poplars, cottonwood and aspen and more
When: Cankers can be seen all year.
Signs and next steps -
Cedar-Apple Rust
DiseaseFirst sign: Round, brown, woody galls on cedar twigs, from the size of a pea to a golf ball
Trees: Eastern red cedar, Apple and crabapple (not on our species list), Hawthorn (not on our species list)
When: Orange jelly-like horns show on cedar galls in spring after warm rain.
Signs and next steps -
Cytospora canker
DiseaseFirst sign: On spruce, a branch that dies back above a canker, often in an upward spiral
Trees: Colorado blue spruce (the most often hit), Other spruces and firs, Aspen and cottonwood, Many other stressed trees, including maple and birch
When: The fungus lives through winter in the cankers.
Signs and next steps -
Diplodia tip blight
DiseaseFirst sign: New shoots that stay short, turn brown and die in late spring or early summer
Trees: Austrian, Scots and mugo pine (the most often hit), Red pine, Ponderosa pine and other two- and three-needle pines, Stressed or older pines
When: Spores are released in late spring and early summer in wet weather and infect new needles and shoots.
Signs and next steps -
Dutch elm disease
DiseaseFirst sign: Sudden wilting and yellowing of leaves on one branch, called flagging
Trees: American elm, Siberian elm (some resistance), Lacebark elm (more resistant)
When: Symptoms often show in late spring and summer.
Signs and next steps -
Fire Blight
DiseaseFirst sign: Shoot tips that wilt, turn brown or black, and bend into a shepherd's crook
Trees: Bradford pear and other ornamental pears, Apple and crabapple (not on our species list), Hawthorn, quince and mountain ash (not on our species list)
When: Infection often starts at bloom in warm, humid or wet spring weather.
Signs and next steps -
Ganoderma root and butt rot
DiseaseFirst sign: Large, shelf-like or bracket-shaped fruiting bodies (conks) on the lower trunk or at the root flare
Trees: Oaks, Maples, Honeylocust, Beech and more
When: Conks usually appear in summer and fall, often after wet weather.
Signs and next steps -
Heart rot and wood decay
DiseaseFirst sign: Conks, brackets or mushrooms growing on the trunk or large limbs
Trees: Silver maple, Red maple, Northern red oak, White oak and more
When: Decay goes on all year inside the tree.
Signs and next steps -
Laurel Wilt
DiseaseFirst sign: Sudden wilting of leaves, often reddish or brown, that stay on the branches
Trees: Sassafras, Redbay and swamp bay (not on our species list), Avocado (a crop host)
When: Wilting can show at any time of year in warm areas.
Signs and next steps -
Leaf spot diseases (anthracnose and tar spot)
DiseaseFirst sign: Irregular brown or reddish-brown dead patches along leaf edges and veins, a sign of anthracnose
Trees: Sycamore and London planetree (anthracnose), Maples (tar spot and other leaf spots), Ash, Oaks and more
When: Anthracnose is most active in cool, wet spring weather as leaves open.
Signs and next steps -
Oak wilt
DiseaseFirst sign: Leaves that turn dull green, bronze or brown from the tips and edges inward and then drop early
Trees: Red oaks (such as northern red, pin, Shumard, water, willow), Live oaks, White oaks (more resistant)
When: Spring and early summer are the high-risk times for new infections, when sap beetles are active and fresh wounds attract them.
Signs and next steps -
Phytophthora root rot
DiseaseFirst sign: Yellowing, wilting or dwarfed leaves or needles, even when soil is wet
Trees: Flowering dogwood, Eastern white pine, Douglas fir, Leyland cypress and more
When: The pathogen is most active when soil is warm and wet.
Signs and next steps -
Pine wilt
DiseaseFirst sign: Needles that fade to a dull gray-green or yellowish color, then turn brown
Trees: Scots pine (the most often hit; not in our species library), Austrian and Japanese black pine, Some other pines, including red and jack pine (less often), Eastern white pine (tends to be more resistant)
When: Symptoms can appear from midsummer to late fall.
Signs and next steps -
Powdery mildew
DiseaseFirst sign: White to gray, dusty or powdery coating on the top or bottom of leaves
Trees: Flowering dogwood, Crape myrtle, American sycamore, White oak and more
When: Usually shows from late spring through fall.
Signs and next steps -
Rhizosphaera needle cast
DiseaseFirst sign: Needles that turn brown or purplish, then drop
Trees: Colorado blue spruce (the most often hit), Black Hills and white spruce, Norway spruce (less often), Rarely other conifers
When: Infection is mainly in spring, when new needles come out and the weather is wet.
Signs and next steps -
Sooty mold
DiseaseFirst sign: A black, soot-like coating on the upper side of leaves, twigs or fruit
Trees: Crape myrtle, Maples, Southern magnolia, Tulip poplar and more
When: It shows up during the growing season when sap-feeding insects are active and honeydew builds up.
Signs and next steps -
Sudden Oak Death
DiseaseFirst sign: Bleeding cankers on the lower trunk: dark, sticky or tar-like sap oozing from the bark
Trees: Northern red oak, Pin oak, Coast redwood (carries the pathogen, rarely dies), Bigleaf maple (carries the pathogen, rarely dies)
When: Spread is linked to cool, wet weather.
Signs and next steps -
Tar spot of maple
DiseaseFirst sign: Pale yellow-green spots on leaves in early summer
Trees: Norway maple, Sugar maple, Red maple, Silver maple and more
When: Infection happens in spring as leaves open.
Signs and next steps -
Texas root rot (cotton root rot)
DiseaseFirst sign: Yellowing, then bronzing and sudden wilting of leaves in hot weather
Trees: Pecan and other fruit and nut trees, Many other broadleaf trees and shrubs (grasses are not affected)
When: It is most active in summer, when soil and air temperatures are high.
Signs and next steps -
Thousand Cankers Disease
DiseaseFirst sign: Yellowing and wilting of leaves in the upper crown, then dieback of branches
Trees: Black walnut
When: Crown dieback is easiest to see in summer when leaves should be full.
Signs and next steps -
Verticillium wilt
DiseaseFirst sign: Sudden wilting and yellowing of leaves on one branch or one side of the tree
Trees: Red maple, Norway maple, Sugar maple, Japanese maple and more
When: Wilting often shows after leaves are fully open, commonly in late spring and summer, especially when hot, dry weather hits an infected tree.
Signs and next steps -
White pine blister rust
DiseaseFirst sign: Yellow or orange-bordered patches on branches or the trunk, often swollen
Trees: Eastern white pine, Sugar pine, Western white pine, whitebark pine and other five-needle pines, Currants and gooseberries (Ribes), which are the alternate host
When: Spores from currant and gooseberry leaves blow to pine needles in late summer and fall.
Signs and next steps
Other damage
Problems with no pest behind them: weather, soil, water, salt, roots and people.
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Construction Damage
Other damageFirst sign: Thinning canopy and dieback that begin one to several years after digging or grading
Trees: Oaks, Maples and beech, Pines and hemlock, Hickory and tulip poplar and more
When: Damage happens when the work is done, but symptoms can take years to appear, often during dry summers.
Signs and next steps -
Drought Stress
Other damageFirst sign: Wilting, curling or drooping leaves during the day
Trees: Maples, Oaks, Beech and birch, Hemlock, spruce and pine and more
When: Summer and early fall are the usual times, but a dry winter can stress evergreens.
Signs and next steps -
Frost cracks
Other damageFirst sign: A long vertical split in the trunk, often on the south or southwest side
Trees: Maples, Honeylocust, Lindens, Sycamores and planetrees and more
When: Cracks form in winter, usually after a sharp drop in temperature, often following a sunny day.
Signs and next steps -
Girdling Roots
Other damageFirst sign: Trunk that goes straight into the ground like a pole instead of flaring out at the base
Trees: Maples (especially Norway maple), Oaks, Linden and honeylocust, Pear and redbud and more
When: The roots grow all the time, but symptoms often show in mid to late summer.
Signs and next steps -
Herbicide damage
Other damageFirst sign: Leaves that are cupped, twisted, puckered or curled, often on new growth
Trees: Maples, Ash and elm, Redbud and dogwood, Pines and more
When: Injury often appears within days or weeks of spraying in spring and summer, when plants are growing.
Signs and next steps -
Iron Chlorosis
Other damageFirst sign: Leaves that turn pale yellow or light green while the veins stay dark green
Trees: Maples, Pin oak and red oaks, River birch, Bald cypress and more
When: Most visible in spring and early summer when new leaves come out.
Signs and next steps -
Lightning Damage
Other damageFirst sign: A long strip of bark blown off, often in a spiral or straight line down the trunk
Trees: Oaks, Pines and fir, Tall hardwoods such as tulip poplar and sycamore, Pecan and hickory and more
When: Lightning strikes are most common in warm-season thunderstorms, though damage can appear right away or many months later.
Signs and next steps -
Road salt damage
Other damageFirst sign: Brown needle tips on evergreens, mostly on the side that faces the road
Trees: Maples, Pines, Spruces and firs, Arborvitae and hemlock and more
When: Salt goes on in winter, but the damage shows later.
Signs and next steps -
Sunscald
Other damageFirst sign: Sunken, dry or cracked patches of bark on the south or southwest side of the trunk
Trees: Maples, Honeylocust, Lindens, Bradford pear and more
When: Damage happens in winter, when the sun warms the bark on a cold day and the temperature drops fast at night.
Signs and next steps -
Woodpecker and sapsucker damage
Other damageFirst sign: Neat rows of small holes drilled around the trunk or limbs, a sign of sapsuckers
Trees: Maples, Birches, Pines, Cherry and more
When: Sapsuckers often feed on trees in fall, winter and spring.
Signs and next steps
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Questions
What does this tree problems library cover?
Common insects, diseases and non-living damage seen on US trees. Each page gives the signs, the season, how it spreads, where it is found, what to do, how to prevent it, when to call a pro and which trees it usually hits.
Can these pages tell me what is wrong with my tree?
They can help you narrow it down, but they are general information, not a diagnosis. Many problems look alike. A certified arborist or your county extension office can confirm what is going on with one tree, often with a sample or a lab test.
What is the difference between a pest, a disease and other damage?
A pest is an insect or mite that feeds on the tree. A disease is caused by a living thing such as a fungus or bacterium. Other damage, often called abiotic damage, has no living cause: drought, frost, salt, soil compaction, root damage, lightning or bad pruning.
How do I know if a pest is in my state?
Each page links to official sources. Ranges change as pests spread, so check your state department of agriculture, the USDA APHIS pages or your university extension for the current map before you decide anything.
Is my tree dangerous because it has a pest or disease?
Not always. Many problems only harm leaves and look worse than they are. Others, like borers and root rots, weaken wood and can make a tree fail. Read our guide on whether a tree is dangerous, keep people away from cracked or leaning trees, call the utility for any tree near power lines and call 911 if someone is in danger.
Should I spray my tree myself?
Be careful. Many problems do not need spraying, and the wrong product or timing can harm bees, pets and water. Large trees need equipment and training. Always follow the product label exactly. When in doubt, ask a certified arborist or your extension office.
Does Lirevon treat or remove sick trees?
No. Lirevon is a remote marketing team for tree service companies. We do not do tree work and we do not list or rank tree companies. To find a local insured pro, search Google Maps, read their reviews and get two or three written quotes.
I own a tree service. How can I use these pages?
Send a page link to a customer who asks about spots, holes or dieback, so they can read the signs in plain words before your visit. Explain problems honestly, without scare tactics. If you want more of those calls answered and booked, see the Never-Miss-A-Job System or ask for a free audit.
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