Pricing
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Most tree companies price by feel, or by what the last quote was. That works until a slow job eats a whole week. This guide shows a simple method that starts with your real costs and ends with a price you can defend.
By Umair Nawaz, founder of Lirevon Updated How we check facts
A tree job feels simple from the driveway. One big oak, three hours, a fair price. Then the climber needs a second rope setup, the chipper clogs, the dump is far away and the crew gets back to the yard two hours late. The price you guessed did not know any of that.
Guessing also hides a second problem. You do not know which jobs make money. A few good jobs can cover for many weak ones, and you never see it. When costs go up, you feel tired and short on cash, but you cannot point to the cause.
A cost-based method fixes this. You build the price from the parts, in the same order every time. It takes a few minutes once you have your numbers. It will not make every quote perfect, but it stops the big mistakes.
One note before we start. This guide does not tell you what to charge in your city. Prices differ by region, season, tree type and job. We give no market rates. Every number here is an example or something you fill in with your own books. For a hands-on version, use the tree job estimator.
Start with people, because labor is usually the biggest cost on a tree job. Do not use the wage alone. A loaded crew-hour cost is what one hour of your whole crew really costs.
Add up the hourly wage of everyone on the crew. Then add the extras you pay because they are on payroll:
Then be honest about billable time. Your crew is paid for a full day, but not every hour earns money. Driving, loading, fueling, sharpening and waiting are all paid and not billed. If your crew is paid for 8 hours and only 6 are on a job site, your real cost per billable hour is higher than the wage math says.
The crew day rate calculator walks through this with your own inputs. Write the result down. You will use it on every quote.
Your trucks, chipper, stump grinder, lift and saws cost money even when they sit still. If you do not charge for them, you pay for them out of your own pocket. The fix is to give each machine an hourly cost.
For each machine, add up its yearly cost: loan or lease payments, insurance, registration, repairs and maintenance, tires and blades, and fuel. Add a reserve for replacing it, because it will wear out. Then divide by the hours you really expect to run it in a year.
The hours matter a lot. A chipper that runs many hours a year costs far less per hour than the same chipper sitting most of the year. If you are not sure a machine is worth keeping, see the equipment buy vs rent tool. For an overview of gear choices, read the equipment guide.
On a quote, add the hours each machine will run. A removal that needs the bucket truck for four hours and the chipper for three should carry both. A simple trim might need only a truck and a chipper for an hour.
Wood and brush have to go somewhere. That may mean dump or transfer-station fees, mulch yard rules, a trip to a processing site or a haul by your own truck. Some of that is a fee. Some of it is labor and truck time. Both belong in the price.
Fees change by site, by load and sometimes by wood type, so call the places you use and keep a short list. Use the disposal cost calculator to turn loads, fees and driving time into one number per job. If a customer keeps the wood, that can lower the cost. Say so on the quote.
Travel is easy to forget because it feels like the cost of doing business. But a crew that spends an hour driving to and from a job is paid for that hour, and the truck burns fuel. A job across your service area costs more than one around the corner from your yard.
Count the round trip in crew time and truck time. You can fold it into the job price, or add a travel line for jobs beyond a set distance. The travel cost calculator does the math with your own wage, truck and distance inputs. Keep this in mind when you draw your service area, too.
Overhead is the cost of running the company that does not belong to one job. Think of the office phone and software, the yard or shop, owner and office salaries, accounting, advertising, general insurance, licenses and any vehicle payments not counted above.
List a full year of these costs. Then spread them over your billable crew hours. Divide the year's overhead by the number of billable crew-hours you expect. The answer is an overhead cost per billable crew-hour. Add it to every job.
Here is the trap. If you skip overhead, every job looks profitable and the bank account still runs dry. Overhead is why a job that "made money" did not leave any. The break-even calculator shows how many billable hours or jobs you need just to cover it.
Two trees of the same size can be very different jobs. Risk factors are the reasons one job takes longer, needs more people or can go wrong in a bigger way. Look at them on every site visit and either add time or add a risk charge.
Some owners add hours for each factor. Others add a percentage to the final price. Either is fine if you do it every time and keep notes on what the real hours turned out to be. After a few months, you will see which factors hurt you most. For the full walkthrough of a site visit, read how to estimate tree jobs. Safety always comes first. No price is worth an unsafe setup.
Once you have your total cost, you add profit. This is where many owners trip, because margin and markup sound alike but give different prices.
A quick check: if you add 50% markup to a cost of $100, the price is $150 and the profit is $50. But $50 is a third of $150, so the margin is only about 33%. If you wanted a 50% margin, you would need to charge $200.
Think in margin. Margin is what is left of each dollar you take in, and it is the number that pays the loans, the owner and the next truck. The profit margin calculator converts between the two for you.
What margin should you pick? We do not give a number, because it depends on your costs, your debt and your goals. First find your break-even point. Then set a target above it that lets you grow and handle a bad month.
Example only. All numbers below are made up to show the method. They are not market prices and not advice on what to charge. Replace each one with your own.
The job (example): remove one medium tree in a back yard. A 3-person crew. Six hours on site, including setup and cleanup. One hour round trip for travel. One load to the disposal site.
| Part | How we got it (example) | Amount |
|---|---|---|
| Crew wages per hour | $30 + $27 + $20 | $77.00 |
| Loaded crew-hour | $77 plus 25% for taxes, insurance and gear | $96.25 |
| Crew on site | 6 hours x $96.25 | $577.50 |
| Equipment | Chipper 4 h x $22, saws and rigging 5 h x $12, truck 6 h x $15 | $238.00 |
| Disposal | One load, example fee | $60.00 |
| Travel | 1 hour crew ($96.25) + 1 hour truck ($15) | $111.25 |
| Overhead | 7 crew-hours x $28 per hour | $196.00 |
| Total cost | Add the cost lines above | $1,182.75 |
| Price for a 35% margin | $1,182.75 / 0.65 | $1,819.62 |
| Rounded quote | Round up to a clean number | $1,820 |
Profit at $1,820 is about $637, which is 35% of the price. Now see what happens with markup. If the owner added a 35% markup instead, the price would be about $1,597. Profit would be about $414, a margin of only about 26%. Same cost, same words, a gap of over $200 on one job.
Now add risk. Say the tree leans toward a fence and needs rope lowering. You might add extra crew-hours or a risk allowance on top, for example 10% (a starting point, change it). That would move the example quote to about $2,000. The point is not the number. The point is that the quote now has reasons behind it, and you can explain them.
To run your own numbers, open the tree job estimator. To build a reusable set of prices from your costs, try the price guide builder.
Small jobs are a trap. A quick trim still needs the truck loaded, the drive, the setup, the cleanup and the drive back. If the job is short, those fixed parts take up most of the time.
A minimum job charge is the lowest price you will take for any visit. Here is how to find it:
The result is your floor. Say it plainly to customers: "Our minimum charge for a visit is this amount, because it covers getting a crew and equipment to your home." Most people understand. If someone only wants a tiny job, offer to bundle it with other work or schedule it when the crew is already nearby.
A tree on a roof at 2 a.m. is a different job. Your crew is called out of bed, you may need overtime pay, you pause other paid work, and the risk is higher because the tree is under stress, the ground may be wet and light is poor.
It is fair to charge more for that, if the extra is tied to real things. Build it the same way as any quote:
Then be open about it. Tell the customer the emergency rate before you start, say why it is higher, and put it in writing, even if that is just a text they reply "yes" to. Keep to what is urgent: make the property safe now, and offer the cleanup at your normal rate the next working day if that suits the customer.
Some places have rules about price gouging after a declared disaster. This is a short explanation, not legal advice. Check your state and local rules. Even where nothing forbids a high price, a customer who feels cheated tells the neighbors. A fair emergency price builds loyal customers. For planning ahead, see the storm season guide and the storm response checklist.
A good price still loses if it is shown badly. Keep it clear.
When you have seen the tree, give one number for a clearly written scope: which trees, what work, what happens to the wood, whether stumps are included, and cleanup. A written, itemized quote feels honest. Try the estimate template if you need a layout.
When you can only see part of the job, a range is the truthful answer. Say what moves the price within the range, for example "closer to the low end if the truck can reach the tree, closer to the high end if it has to be hand-carried." Then confirm the final price after a visit. A range on a phone call also keeps you from losing the lead while you wait to see the site.
A "from" price on your website or in a text sets a floor. For example, "stump grinding from" a base figure. It tells people you are not the cheapest option without hiding the whole price. Only use a "from" price you will really honor for the simplest job, and say that the final price depends on the site. Build yours with the price guide builder.
A fair price sent two weeks late loses to a decent price sent today. Get quotes out quickly and follow up. Invoca reports that about 27% of calls to home-service businesses go unanswered, so a company that simply answers and replies fast is already ahead. If missed calls are a gap for you, see the missed calls guide.
Costs rise. Fuel, insurance, wages, parts and equipment all go up over time, and if your prices stay still, your margin shrinks quietly. Raising prices is normal. Do it with a plan.
You do not have to take every job. Some are bad for the business, and a "no" can save you money, time and sometimes much more.
Say it politely: "Thanks for thinking of us. We would not be able to do this safely at that price, so we will pass. If anything changes, call us." A calm no can bring a customer back later.
Work out the crew hours the job will take, then add equipment time, disposal, travel and a share of overhead. That is your cost. Divide it by one minus your target margin to get a price. Then adjust for risk such as nearby structures or power lines.
It is what one hour of your whole crew really costs you. It includes wages plus payroll taxes, workers' compensation, insurance tied to labor, and paid time you cannot bill. It is always higher than the hourly wage.
Markup is the percent you add on top of cost. Margin is the percent of the final price that is profit. A 50% markup is a 33% margin. Many owners add a markup thinking it is a margin and end up with less profit than planned.
There is no single right number. It depends on your overhead, your debt, your equipment age and what you want to take home. Use the break-even calculator to find the lowest margin that keeps you alive, then choose a target above it.
Most homeowners want one price for the whole job, so quote by the job. But build that price from hours and costs behind the scenes. Hourly pricing can fit storm cleanup or work where the scope is truly unknown, as long as the customer agrees first.
Yes, if the extra charge is tied to real costs: overtime wages, after-hours callout, higher risk and skipping other paid work. Explain it in plain words before work starts and put it in writing. Do not take advantage of a scared customer.
A range is honest when you cannot see everything, such as a tree you have only seen in a photo. After a site visit, give one firm price for a clearly defined scope. If hidden problems could change it, say what would trigger a change.
Raise them in small steps on new quotes first. Track your close rate for a few weeks. Give repeat customers early notice, explain the reason in one honest sentence, and make sure your reviews and response speed back up the price.
Do not rush to match it. Ask what the other quote includes: cleanup, stump height, insurance, haul-away. If the scope is the same and their price is below your cost, let that job go. A job under your cost makes you poorer even when it keeps the crew busy.
Review your numbers at least twice a year and any time fuel, insurance, wages or equipment costs change a lot. Rerun your crew-hour cost, then check whether your minimum charge and your usual quotes still hit your target margin.
Related: estimating tree jobs, equipment, crew day rate calculator, profit margin calculator, break-even calculator, all guides. This page is general information, not legal, tax or financial advice. Ask your accountant about your own numbers.
Keep reading: job costing, break-even price, gross margin, quick answers.
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